Aska 1-se7ven

 A great day with my other great piece of equipment, my ASKA ONE-seven wing

 

 Fly what you climb!

Bydalsfjällen Jemtland

Suddenly the wind stoped!
After a long night with heavy duty strong winds, which were shaking not just the tent.
But after a slow breakfast we, me and Vanja, still decided to at least do a reduced tour around the massiv to get some mountain air, maybe even under the wing!
So, said and done we marched off towards the big open to see what was waiting. And it wasn't just the views this time, it was a bit of entertainment for us both

SPEED FLYING Movie from China

This summer i had a great trip to China, Mustagh Ata.
The goal was to ascend to the summit via the new " normal" route and then descend the mountain on skis.
We had some great skiing with deep and cold untoucht snow, and also a little bit of flying in the end.
Although I could not reach the goal to fly from the very top this time.
I used a light speed wing from ASKA- sports and a sellette from Kortel design, a perfect combination flight and weight wise!

hope you enjoy the movie as much as I enjoyed the flight

/Fly what you climb

BLUEBERRY HILL

Last Monday I had a quite good day on "Blåberget" with a easy strol up the classic "Vikingasvärdet" graded 6+, UIAA VII something.
So today, I thought lets free solo the thing. After giving the direct version a bit of scrubbing on some mossy sections, a variation I put up some years ago. It felt better than ever.
And after warming up on "Belsebub" a 60mts 5+/6- I felt ready to go for the object of the day.
But, to be honest, first I had an espresso to free the mind...
The sun was hitting the east face of the wall really nice when I got to the cliff. It was warm even, so the down sweater went off in a hurry.

Blueberry hill in the autumn light. Vikingasvärdet follows the shade line on the right side

Vanja on the watch
Forcing my self to look down one more time before I pull my self over and up on the big ledge just below the top! I am sure I have done a couple of stupid things, but this wasn't to clever maybe:-)
One look and then off to do no. 2. I don't know if it's because of the espresso or the climb, but it is rapidly in a big hurry.
It's the last of the routes in this grade I had left to do before I had all of the 6+ in the "free solo bag" But this one was sick!
Rapped down to the base, put on my new 5-10's anasazi and starting up the first bouldery section. Which is the hardest on the whole climb actually. The start goes easy, to easy? The rubbet sticks like glue, (have i heard that in a song?)

DYNAFIT TITAN Light

I must say, last years TLT Boots from Dynafit made the life for an ski- and alpine climber so much easier.
With a revolutionizing boot that works in every aspect, and still does.
It's light and fast but still support a nice descent at least as long the skis isnt to fat. On up to skis with a waist of 100mm they are still ok for me at least.
I use the TLT 5 just as often on ice and alpine climbs as regulary climbing boots.
But, now the boot team from Dynafit has done it again. The new TITAN ULTRALIGHT

This boot is just 3.5kg for the pair but just as stiff as a proper Alpine ski boot, well as close as you can get.
The walk mode is ~15 and the shaft can be adjusted between 15-21 degrees.
This is a boot that will work on most fat skis.
Dynafit Titan ULTRALIGHT

BERGVIKSBERGET it's a Classic!

This area of the east part of Jemtland has some great, but seldom visited, areas. At least nowadays
Although if the goal is to find some nice cracks, this is a good option
Yesterday I had an intensive day of climbing, solo and rope soloing.
At the end of the day I thought of soloing a route which is more of a boulder problem start with a thin layback. With 3mts of hard climbing and the rest of the 25mts is more of a scramble. Al though I decide to clip in the clog.
Which turned out to be a good decision because after grabbing a quite big block at the top which choose to brake of I find my self tumbling down the slab before the clog takes the fall ( a bit of slack in the rope)
So instead of... there was just a couple of bruisings

Farsans Fart a Jemtlands grade 5c/6a, be aware.
At this time of year with cold dry weather it doesn't effect the friction that much that there is some mossy parts, the 5-10 sticks even better.
It has really nice surroundings with a lake to go swimming in just below and a lot of camping places, just pick one.
And no cars or other motor traffic either to mention.
Defenitly not a place to miss for the adventure type of climber.
So rack your rack, a selection of Cams and nuts, good moss shoes and a bunch of spirits. The day is yours!

A link to the area, how to get there and the routes
http://hem.bredband.net/b755182/klattring/jamtland_ost_2004-08-08.pdf

picture from Sverigeföraren.se

Multi grade Day