18 okt. 2011

BERGVIKSBERGET it's a Classic!

This area of the east part of Jemtland has some great, but seldom visited, areas. At least nowadays
Although if the goal is to find some nice cracks, this is a good option
Yesterday I had an intensive day of climbing, solo and rope soloing.
At the end of the day I thought of soloing a route which is more of a boulder problem start with a thin layback. With 3mts of hard climbing and the rest of the 25mts is more of a scramble. Al though I decide to clip in the clog.
Which turned out to be a good decision because after grabbing a quite big block at the top which choose to brake of I find my self tumbling down the slab before the clog takes the fall ( a bit of slack in the rope)
So instead of... there was just a couple of bruisings

Farsans Fart a Jemtlands grade 5c/6a, be aware.
At this time of year with cold dry weather it doesn't effect the friction that much that there is some mossy parts, the 5-10 sticks even better.
It has really nice surroundings with a lake to go swimming in just below and a lot of camping places, just pick one.
And no cars or other motor traffic either to mention.
Defenitly not a place to miss for the adventure type of climber.
So rack your rack, a selection of Cams and nuts, good moss shoes and a bunch of spirits. The day is yours!

A link to the area, how to get there and the routes
http://hem.bredband.net/b755182/klattring/jamtland_ost_2004-08-08.pdf

picture from Sverigeföraren.se

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