If you seek for a place to head for to get some good rock climbing. Seek no more, head for Presles! This place has it.
Just be a bit prepared that there is some veggi on the rock here and there. And that it is in the southern part of France. So a bit warm and humid summer time.
But here you find good food, nice villages, a small grossery shop, a tres bien boulangeri, Internet access at some of of the cafes and also a bit important; climbing for everyone.
Long routes, short pitches, long pitches...and, you can walk of most of the routes after topping out. And there is some opportunities for some enjoyable run outs. C'est tout!
"the best Local climber present"
The village of Presles above Pont-en-royans has this great cafe/restaurant in the middle of the village, impossible to miss, and the owner can provide you with a good camping spot as well. Or stay in Refuge Presles for 12€/night.
There is also a small place outside the village, Gite Gazon, perfect for 6-7 pax so bring your friends, you that still have some, a bunch of quickies, a 60m corde and you will have great time!
It is difficult to recommend any special areas but if "Les Buis" and "Fhara kiri". The routes are up to 280m routes end are easy to access, well marked with signs at the start and easy to walk of. A nice stroll back to the road from the top of the hill.
Just respect the marked places to park your car.
La Discrete TD/6b 250m and Coucou nous Revoilou TD+/6c 250m are not to be missed. And at 7a the "Doigt de passion" is a 3star 200m fingery passion.
between a belly and a hard place
For shorter routes "Balme Etranger" close to the big cave is well wort the effort. Try the Mieux qu'un rêve 6c+, it's magnific! And the wine at the restaurant is cheap as well when you have called it the day:)
And for the cultivated mind, don't miss the museum and the hanging houses in Pont-en-royans before you leave.
Am I becoming a full proof sports climber or what!?!
Link t;o more info http:,//www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/crags/falesia.html?idfalesia=039
/Rock on
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